We have to go back to the 1950s to trace the origins of the Breitling Diver’s watch. At that time the demand for divers’ watches was on the increase. The oceans of the world were opening up their secrets and the need to explore and conquer the deep-see growing. But not only were the professional and scientific worlds looking to the ocean for answers aquatic sport enthusiasts and nautical leisure activities were also on the up and up. There was a new and very apparent need for technical, affordable, accurate diving instruments that could be worn while diving.
all images courtesy of Breitling.com
At this time, in 1953, Rolex released the Rolex Submariner water resistant to 100m. A few years later in 1955 Omega unveil their Omega Seamaster divers watch with a certified rating to a depth just beyond 60m. The world market for Swiss quality professional dive watches had emerged.
1957 – enter the Breitling SuperOcean MK1
A few years later, in 1957, Breitling launch two innovative dive watches. The first is a simple time-only affair Ref. 1004. The other is a more complicated chronograph diver’s watch Ref. 807. Both are pictured below. These new dive watches are named the Breitling SuperOcean and, most importantly, they are rated to 200m water resistancy. Compared to the main rivals at the time, Rolex and Omega, this 200m claim was substantial and attracted much interest.
Breitling SuperOcean Ref 1004 – the gentleman’s dive watch
The Breitling marketing team at the time produced two watches with very different style attributes. The Ref 1004 was designed as a gentleman’s watch who demanded style and function in the one timepiece. A watch that was clearly as at home in the gentlemen’s clubs of the 1950’s as it was at the sailing club or on the beach.
Breitling SuperOcean Ref 804 Chronograph – for professional divers
The Breitling SuperOcean Ref 804 had a more functional brief. This timepiece was intended for professional use, to be worn by a diver demanding the highest levels of accuracy and reliability.
To the modern watch fan these two classics look as good today as they did over 60 years ago. The new Breitling SuperOcean Heritage watches have taken all their design cues from these innovative models. Same classic looks, style and desirability with improvements made to accuracy and reliability only.
You had to personally experience these watches in 1957 to understand the impact they made in the luxury watch industry. It was clear to everyone involved that their boast of 200m water resistance was a game changer. But it was everything else about these watches that caused a commotion at the Geneva watch show. The fresh lines and breathtaking design distinguished them from all other watches available at the time. All those years making aviation instruments was put to good use with the highly oversized circular and triangular hour markers maximizing the legibility and ease of timekeeping
Video review – SuperOcean Heritage 57
Is this SOH 57 a worthy addition to the Superocean line? or is there too much overlap with the Superocean Heritage II that carries the more substantial and contemporary flair? My own opinion- this is a watch I will not rush out to add to my own collection, but I can certainly appreciate and enjoy it. Big thank you to Richard who as always is a great supporter of this channel in lending in these exciting new releasesYouTube
1965 – Breitling SuperOcean SLOW MOTION Ref 2005
The CRITICAL feature of a diver’s watch, aside from the obvious water resistancy, is ease of use measuring the DIVE TIME. The 1957 versions of the SuperOcean feature a rotating bezel that can be used in conjuction with the minute hand to measure dive time. However, it wasn’t very clear and sometimes hard to read.
The solution to this problem was a devised in 1965 by Willy Breitling with the new Breitling SuperOcean “SLOW MOTION” Ref 2005. His plan was to use the chronograph hand (the second hand to most people) to mark time in minutes rather than seconds. When the chronograph is running the second hand completes one full rotation in one HOUR, not the normal one rotation per MINUTE. This clever utilisation of an existing primary hand permitted easy reading of the elapsed dive time.
But how do you know when it’s running?
The problem with this clever innovation of the SLOW MOTION chronograph calibre is the difficulty in checking that the clock is running. With the hand moving just 1/60 of a revolution every minute a quick glance wasn’t enough to determine if the user had pressed start or stop. In other words, a big problem when diving in to the ocean.
The solution was the addition of a RUNNING INDICATOR located at the 6 0’clock position. When not in use this indicator is all black. When the stopwatch is launched it turns to all yellow. Start the chronograph and the indicator displays a black disc with a yellow spot (as shown above).
Landmark dates in the history of the SuperOcean
Many people only consider Rolex and Omega when looking for a dive watch with history, innovation and heritage. At ChronoDiver’s we’d urge you to take a look at the Breitling range. With a rich history in dive watch advancements from 1957 to present day. Here’s a few of their highlights.
- 1957 sees the arrival of the SuperOcean Ref 1007 and 804 (hand wind)
- 1965 the SuperOcean “slow motion” Ref 2005 (hand wind)
- 1969 arrival of the SuperOcean CHORNO-MATIC – first self winding Breitling dive watches (automatic)
- 1983 Breitling release the SuperOcean DEEPSEA Ref 81190 water resistant to 1000m